When in Chicago

Traveling Table: Chicago

Mon, 23 Mar 2009 11:34:11 -0400

Chicago's already one of the country's top dining destinations, but these four new spots are setting the bar even higher.

Graham Elliot Chef Graham Elliot Bowles gets playful with four-star cuisine at his new spot inside a 19th-century warehouse. His whimsical creations, like a Pabst Blue Ribbon-simmered risotto with bacon and Cheez-It cracker crumbs (pictured), are served accompanied by a soundtrack that includes tunes performed by Bowles himself. Try: Deconstructed Caesar salad with Parmesan fluff and brioche Twinkies ($9). 217 W. Huron St.; 312-624-9975 or grahamelliot.com

L20 Laurent Gras set a new standard for seafood when he opened L20 last spring in the historic Belden-Stratford hotel. Four- and 12-course tasting menus ($110 and $165, respectively) show off exquisite fish sourced from around the globe, including Galician octopus and amadai from Japan. The over-the-top bread service is the city's best, featuring anchovy croissants and bacon-filled twists accompanied by house-churned butter. Try: Gold egg yolk with kampachi and kurobuta pork. 2300 Lincoln Park W.; 773-868-0002 or l2orestaurant.com

The Publican This shrine to craft brews and heirloom pork comes from the team behind Blackbird and Avec restaurants. The ever-changing menu might feature beef heart dressed with marrow sauce and boudin blanc-topped potato pancakes, all complemented by a selection of more than 100 beers. Try: The charcuterie plate of duck and foie gras terrine, Morteau sausage, pork pie and head cheese ($19). 837 W. Fulton Market; 312-733-9555 or thepublicanrestaurant.com

Urban Belly Tucked next to an Avondale Laundromat is Bill Kim's brilliant ode to noodles and dumplings. Kim taps his Korean roots to expertly blend Asian flavors in satisfying noodle dishes like the Urban Belly, tangles of ramen drowned in broth with pork belly and shiitake mushrooms. The communal wood tables, BYOB policy and affordable prices (every dish is under $13) have made it a favorite hangout for Chicago chefs and foodies. Try: Hominy, kimchi and spicy pork-belly rice noodles ($12). 3053 N. California Ave.; 773-583-0500 or urbanbellychicago.com

http://tastingtable.com/entry_detail/everywhere/138/Four_...

Posted by Patricia

Grab

Catch a rising star in Chicago

Mon, 04 May 2009 11:54:58 -0400

Whether it's scoping the Beatles at the Cavern Club or scooping up Google stock at the IPO, everyone loves to get in on the ground floor. Luckily, you can still score a reservation at Chicago's Avenues restaurant to experience the prowess of rising star chef Curtis Duffy.

With stints at Charlie Trotter's and Alinea (as Grant Achatz's right-hand man), Duffy is more pedigreed than a thoroughbred. But unlike his mentors, Duffy dazzles not with international fusion or custom-made service pieces but with hyperseasonal, ingredient-forward food.

However, with diners doing shots of carbonated Cabernet-grape juice and smashing sugar tuiles to get to togarashi-spiced crab in cucumber consommé, his food is far from Chez Panisse redux.

Many dishes look like miniature landscapes: Exotic garnishes like shiso blooms, spruce tendrils and micro romanesco create a tiny forest scene, while a redwood-colored plank of braised pork belly--girded by a chocolate-noodle river dotted with lily-pad-shaped miner's lettuce (pictured)--is an edible pond diorama.

Think of the rotating menu, which rarely repeats dishes, as a "one night only" concert. And if you catch the show soon, you can say you knew Duffy before he became a superstar.

Avenues
108 E. Superior St.
Chicago
312-573-6754

http://peninsula.com

Posted by Patricia

Grab

Eight Great Dumplings in Chicago

Thu, 09 Jul 2009 12:27:56 -0400

1. Lamb and brandy dumplings at Urban Belly
This is what happens when a haute-cuisine chef (Bill Kim) switches gears and starts cooking for the masses: crisp, pan-fried dumplings stuffed with garlic-kissed ground lamb and brandy-soaked black beans. 3053 N. California Ave. (773-583-0500; urbanbellychicago.com)

2. Meat pierogis at Smak Tak
Chicago has the biggest Polish population outside of Warsaw, so no other American city can match our pierogis. At Smak Tak, the pockets of rich beef are encased in a thick dough and served with nothing but drawn butter and sour cream. 5961 N. Elston Ave. (773-763-1123; smaktak.com)

3. Kreplach at The Bagel
If you only order a bagel at The Bagel you’re thinking too literally—and missing out on this deli’s true specialty: these robust, beef-filled dumplings (which, for the record, wouldn’t be half as good if it weren’t for the golden, schmaltzy chicken broth they swim in). 3107 N. Broadway (773-477-0300; bagelrestaurant.com)

4. Spaetzle at Julius Meinl
This coffee house is an American extension of the Vienna coffee roasting company. And if you think they do their coffee right (as a rule, the smooth brews arrive on a shiny silver tray), wait until you try their buttery spaetzle with braised lamb. 4363 N. Lincoln Ave. (773-868-1876; meinl.com)

5. Thai curry chicken bao at Wow Bao
Like the good restaurateur he is, Rich Melman saw gold in these soft, spicy buns. Now he has multiple locations around the city hawking them, and he can hardly keep up with the demand. These buns are quickly prepared and portable—fast food without that after-meal remorse. (wowbao.com)

6. Shrimp dumplings at Hon Kee
As one of only two Chinese restaurants on a long strip of Vietnamese ones, Hon Kee isn’t the kind of place people coming to this neighborhood are looking for. That is, unless they’re looking for impeccably fresh shrimp encased in translucent dumpling skins. 1064 W. Argyle St, (773-878-6650)

7. Koldunai at Healthy Food
Hearty is the word that comes to mind when thinking about this Lithuanian joint’s beef-stuffed, bacon-topped dumplings. Indulgent works, too. Healthy? Not so much. 3236 S. Halsted St. (312-326-2724; healthyfoodlithuanian-chicago.com)

8. Sambusa at Ras Dashen
Ethiopian food is all about sharing, but these starters don’t follow the rules. The deep-fried, spinach-filled triangles—crisp, chewy, and addictive—inspire selfish hoarding, not sharing. So order at least two rounds. 5846 N. Broadway (773-506-9601; rasdashenchicago.com)

http://www.gourmet.com/restaurants/2009/05/eight-great-du...

Posted by Patricia

Grab

The Drawing Room

Tue, 08 Jun 2010 09:40:26 -0400

937 North Rush Street, Chicago IL

312-266-2694

Drawing Room: Crafty Cocktails in Chicago
Master bartenders unleash their encyclopedic knowledge while mixing your drinks tableside (from a custom-built bar cart). Punch bowls, homemade sodas, and boutique coffee and tea service up the bar ante.

http://www.thedrchicago.com/

Posted by Patricia

Grab

Traveling Table: Minneapolis

Thu, 24 Sep 2009 12:53:55 -0400

Sea Change Chef Tim McKee (pictured), of the city's most-lauded restaurant, La Belle Vie, has recently expanded his empire to include a Caribbean barbeque joint, an upscale tequila bar and, now, this sustainable seafood spot. Located in the striking, Jean Nouvel-designed Guthrie Theater, its dishes feature fresh catch from around the globe, such as arctic char with artichoke giardiniera ($20) and linguine with sea urchin and rock shrimp ($18). 818 S. Second St.; 612-225-6499 or seachangempls.com

Bradstreet Crafthouse Retro cocktails make a comeback at the Graves Hotel lounge, where rare spirits are mixed by detail-obsessed drink makers: They use five types of ice, update their house-made bitters with the seasons and measure ingredients with eyedroppers. The citrusy Cooper's Union ($10) pairs Minnesota-made Prairie Organic Vodka with elderflower liqueur and orange flower water. 601 First Ave. N.; 612-312-1821 or graves601hotel.com

Chef Shack Overlooking the Mississippi River, the Mill City Farmers Market draws dozens of farmers who sell Minnesota's best produce, cheese, wild rice and more. For inspiration on what to do with these raw ingredients, queue up at the mobile Chef Shack, where Lisa Carlson and Carrie Summer turn their fine-dining expertise to street food: tongue tacos made with grass-fed beef ($6), bison burgers ($7), Indian-spiced mini doughnuts ($5) and torched-to-order crème brûlée ($5). 704 S. Second St.; chefshack.org (through October 17)

Moto-I The first sake brewpub outside Japan is in...Minneapolis? This dark, clubby izakaya has house-brewed namazake on tap, Asian street-food treats--pork buns ($3), dumplings ($8), ramen noodles ($9), lotus chips ($3)--on the menu and sumo wrestling tournaments on the TV screens. 2940 Lyndale Ave. S.; 612-821-6262 or moto-i.com

Posted by Patricia

Grab

The Violet Hour

Tue, 08 Jun 2010 09:38:08 -0400

The Violet Hour: Hush-Hush Imbibing in Chicago
Let your thirst lead the way to The Violet Hour, as there are no clues to tip you off to this Chicago speakeasy, which is low on outside hype but high on ballroom glitz. It’s first come, first served for the expertly mixed drinks (like the gin and rose water Juliet & Romeo) and little bit of sustenance (beer-braised chicken wings).

http://www.theviolethour.com/

Posted by Patricia

Grab

Perennial

Fri, 20 Aug 2010 10:18:27 -0400

1800 N. Lincoln Ave., Chicago, IL

(312) 981-7070

Perennial chef Ryan Poli favors Roman-style gnocchi, which he makes by stirring semolina on the stove in an indulgent mix of black-truffle broth, chopped truffles, truffle oil and a little Parmesan butter. Once the semolina firms up, Poli cuts it into precise squares and fries them until they're crisp on the outside, but still creamy inside ($12).

http://www.perennialchicago.com/

Posted by Patricia

Grab

Suckers Candy

Fri, 12 Nov 2010 11:43:51 -0500

3256 North Damen Avenue, Chicago, IL

773-549-1706

Adulthood can be a major chore.

Dirty laundry? Your problem. Weekly allowance? Yeah, right. Nap time? Not on company time.

Bring back the fun. Playfully retro shop Suckers Candy will have you turning cartwheels again, lickety-split. The mint-green walls and punchy pastel shelves were made to satisfy your sweet tooth — old-school style. All your faves are represented: Bottle Caps, candy necklaces, Double Bubble, and candy cigarettes. More mature taste buds can sample hand-made ice cream and gourmet chocolates. Go ahead and ride that sugar high all the way home with a few old-time toys to go, like paddleball and cork guns. The best news: Penny candy still costs just pennies.

Growing up may be unavoidable. But sucking it up is now a whole lot sweeter.

http://www.suckerscandyinc.com/

Posted by Patricia

Grab

Candyality

Fri, 12 Nov 2010 11:52:45 -0500

3425 North Southport Avenue, Chicago, IL

773-472-7800

Chicago’s Candyality has wall-to-wall gummies and chewies, tables of gourmet chocolates, retro candies (Necco Sky Bars, MoonPies, Candy Buttons), movie theater popcorn, and more.

http://candyality.com

Posted by Patricia

Grab

Windy City Sweets

Fri, 12 Nov 2010 11:54:31 -0500

3308 North Broadway Street, Chicago, IL

773-477-6100

Maybe you’ve heard of Windy City Sweets, the Chicago boutique that sells more than 600 confections. (It’s been around since 1983, after all.) The smiley staff makes almost half of the available sweets, including chocolate walnut fudge, chocolate macadamia caramel patties, and dipped glazed fruits.

http://windycitysweets.com

Posted by Patricia

Grab